Frequently Asked Questions

A home inspection helps identify hidden issues in a property, such as structural damage or faulty systems, before you commit to the purchase. This ensures you know exactly what you’re buying.

By uncovering problems early, a home inspection can prevent costly repairs later. You can also use the inspection report to negotiate a lower price or request that the seller fix issues before closing.

Inspectors often find issues with roofs, foundations, plumbing, electrical systems, heating and cooling units, and even hidden water damage or pest infestations.

Knowing the true condition of the home helps you make a sound investment decision, ensuring you don’t overpay for a property that needs major repairs.

Even new homes can have construction defects or code violations. An inspection ensures the builder followed safety and quality standards.

A deck requires a railing when it is 30 inches or more above grade.

Stairs require railings when they have 4 or more risers. They must also include grippable handrails.

The maximum spacing is 4 inches.

The maximum spacing is 4 ⅜ inches.

• Proper function of the automatic reversal system door must reverse on impact.

• Photoelectronic sensors installed no more than 6 inches from the floor.

• A working quick release cord for emergencies.

• Condition of springs, cables, rollers, and tracks.

• Making sure the door is balanced and moves smoothly without forcing it.

Inspectors carefully test the system to ensure it reacts correctly:

• Gently applying upward pressure while the door is closing.

• Blocking the sensor beam to confirm the door reverses instantly.

• If the door appears damaged or unsafe, the inspector may stop the test to avoid further issues.

Common issues that lead to a failed inspection include:

1. Cracks, dents, or peeling paint on the panels.

2. Misaligned or damaged tracks.

3. Broken springs.

4. Frayed cables or loose hardware

5. Missing or loose bolts, bracing, or support components.

Yes, many cracks are a normal part of a home settling over time. That said, some cracks can point to movement or moisture issues, which is why I always take a closer look during the inspection.

Doors and windows are natural stress points in a home. As the house expands and contracts with seasonal changes small cracks can develop in these areas and they’re often very common, but if Biff sees anything of note he will mark it for review by a licensed professional.

Not every outlet needs its own buttons to be protected. In many homes, outlets are wired in a “series.” This means one GFCI outlet (the one with the buttons) can protect several standard-looking outlets “downstream” on the same circuit.

During the inspection, Biffs Professional Home Inspections uses a handheld tester to “trip” the circuit from these standard outlets. If the power cuts out, it proves they are properly protected by a GFCI device located elsewhere—possibly in another room or even at the main electrical panel.

While a home inspection isn’t a code enforcement visit, inspectors recommend GFCIs because they are a modern life-safety standard. A standard breaker protects your house (from fire), but a GFCI protects you (from electrocution).

Inspectors often use a level tool to check for unevenness. Homeowners can also perform a simple test by rolling a marble or a ball across the floor; if it rolls in one direction, the floor may be uneven.

Common signs include cracks, warping, buckling, squeaking sounds, and visible gaps between floorboards. Water stains or mold growth can also indicate underlying issues.

If damage is found, the inspector will recommend a professional to evaluate for repairs or replacements. It’s important to address issues promptly to prevent further damage and ensure safety.

Smoke Detector Placement:

• Every Level: At least one smoke alarm must be installed on every story of the home, including basements.
• Sleeping Areas: An alarm must be installed inside every bedroom or room used for sleeping.
• Outside Bedrooms: An alarm must be installed in the immediate vicinity outside of bedrooms.
• Mounting: They should be placed on the ceiling or high on the wall (generally 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling).
• Interconnection: For newer homes or major remodels, alarms must be “interconnected” so that if one sounds, they all sound.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector Placement:

• Outside Sleeping Areas: Alarms must be installed in the hallway outside of every bedroom area.
• Every Level: Like smoke alarms, CO detectors are required on every level of the home.